I think you are going to find other challenges with this guitar then wht Steve shows in his article. Believe it or not it's a lot easier to reglue a bridge on a quality guitar like that Taylor then your Epiphone.
I'm guessing you don't have a bridge heating setup like that either. If not then a clothing iron will work or even better and what I use to this day is a heat lamp. The first thing you will want to do is to trace the outline of the bridge on the top with a brand new very sharp Exacto blade, you want to cut into the finish of the guitar but not the wood getting as close to the wood as possible, just kiss it.
Mask off the area with cardboard and AL foil to reflect the heat away from the top exposing only the bridge and place a heat lamp about 6in from it and heat it up till it's just about smoking. Or use the cloths iron. Then follow Steves procedure.
Once the bridge is loose, and this is what makes it harder to do then a Taylor, you will probably find finish stuck to the top and or bridge. Cheap guitars just glue the bridge right to the thick finish. The whole bridge foot print on the top needs to be removed of the finish. I use chisels mostly to do this but you can use razor blades or even a small flat block with sand paper on it. Remove all the finish off the bottom of the bridge. You want wood on wood contact.
You should make a clamping caul for the inside of the guitar though it's not absolutely critical it's a good idea. Dan Erlewine has a great video on how to do that. You need al least two clamps long enough to go through the sound hole to the wings of the bridge, you can use 3/32nd inch bolts to clamp the center of the bridge through the bridgepin holes. I would recommend using Titebond.
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