Thread: 3 string capos
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Old 10-01-2013, 03:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nwsht View Post
If I use a capo, I prefer the Kyser capo. I'm interested in 3 string capos and would like to purchase two of them.
...I know they are meant for strings 3,4,5 or 2,3,4, but can they also be used on 1,2,3 and 4,5,6?
...Additionally, would I have trouble using a Kyser cut capo on a classical guitar? I pretty much have been playing the classical exclusively at the moment.
...Maybe I should buy normal capos and modify them?
Hi nwsht...

Capos for classical guitars have an upper bumper which is totally straight and span a 2'' nut width, whereas capos for acoustic guitars are designed with a curved upper bumper and 1 11/16'' or 1 3/4'' or 1 7/8'' nut width. It is important to use the proper version on each type of neck.

If you already have a Kyser capo you can easily build a cut capo out of it for covering strings 3-4-5 (or 2-3-4) by flipping it upside down, removing the bottom piece, measuring the lower piece so it spans strings 4-5-6 at the 2nd fret and then trimming the piece so each end falls approximately half-way between strings 6/5 and 2/3 (at the 2nd fret). I trim them with a sheet rock knife.

Then return the trimmed piece to the bottom clamp and use your Kyser for both a normal and cut version by flipping it upside down for cut capo work.

It usually doesn't work well at all to use a capo which was cut for strings 3-4-5 (2-3-4 applied the other direction) for covering strings 1-2-3 or 6-5-4. The curvature of the back of the neck causes them to pop off too easily.

If you are going to cut your own from manufactured capos, the Kyser is a hard one to make work because they want to pitch forward (tip on their nose) when cut from a conventional capo. The Planet Waves NS (aluminum version) or the Planet Waves Dual Action work far better. And even the Planet Waves NS need the lower clamps to be built up. I use shrink tube to build them up.

I tried cutting Kysers (I actually DID cut some), but they were always shifting around on me. Even Kyser builds a different angle into the frame of their cut versions. Same with Shubbs - they want to pitch forward and are hard to keep in place. I have watched David Wilcox, Trace Bundy and Phil Keaggy wrestle with keeping them in place on strings 1-2-3 and 4-5-6 in the 'early days' of experimenting with cutting our own.

My Planet Waves versions stay on the inner strings really well and look like this.

Here's a picture of both the Planet Waves NS and Planet Waves Dual Action before/after I cut them. I use the Planet Waves NS when I have a lot of time to put them on by hand, and the Dual Action spring loaded version when I'm in a hurry.



Hope this helps...


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