Quote:
Originally Posted by charles Tauber
Without seeing it, I'd guess that the cheeks of the mortise/tenon are angled.
Sure, I've had that problem.
There are two ways that I have used to correct the problem. One is to shave/plane one side of the tenon until there is enough "slop" to allow the neck to be centered correctly, then shim the joint to be snug in that position.
The second, if you've allowed sufficient excess width in your neck blank - I leave the neck blank not trimmed/shaped to final width until after the fingerboard is glued on and until the neck is shaped - you can slightly angle where the fingerboard goes so as to have it pointed correctly at the centerline of the top at the bridge position. A small change in position at the nut can produce a large change at the saddle.
Somogyi, purposely offsets his bridge a few mm from the centerline. Unless the neck position is out by a lot, it might be fine just as you have it.
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Thanks for the reply. I see what you are saying
I know at the time I cut all the mortise and tenon that all was square and not angled. I checked it with my Starret square to be sure. It sat for a few days before I glued it in. I will admit that I didn't recheck it before I glued it in. Now that I think about it , I did notice that when I went back in the shop to work on the guitar that the neck block was sitting on my miter saw table and the sun was shining through the window on it. I guess its possible that it could have shifted some from the sunlight hitting it.
I used Titebond to glue it in. Any recommendation on how to get it loose from the side material to shave it some if necessary?
Yes the neck is wide enough to adjust there some if necessary also.
But even doing that I will always have it in the back of my mind that I could have done better getting that block right.