Quote:
Originally Posted by charles Tauber
I find it much easier to leave the neck un-profiled while gluing the fingerboard. My preference is to shape the neck only after the fingerboard is glued to the neck.
I find it much easier to profile the headstock and drill tuner holes while the neck is un-profiled.
Whether the fingerboard is attached to the neck prior to attaching the neck to the body is a matter of preference. It is also a matter of preference whether or not to finish the neck - with the fingerboard already attached and the neck profiled - prior to attaching it to the body or after being attached to the body.
It is generally easier to do the finish work, including filling, sanding and buffing, if the neck is not already attached to the instrument.
You might also consider a bolt-on neck arrangement, rather than a dovetail. It could be a butt joint or mortise and tenon arrangement. Nothing much, but tradition, is gained by the dovetail, and it is tedious to fit correctly. If you do stick with a dovetail, if it is a tight mating fit, you can use a single wood screw, with no glue, to attach the neck. The fit of the joint holds the parts in position: the screw simply prevents lateral separation of the two parts. (The extension of the fingerboard is still glued to the top.) If not a tight fit, just use regular yellow glue. You could use hot hide glue, but there is no clear advantage to doing so. Don't use epoxy or CA glue.
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So you prefer to glue the fingerboard to the neck prior to gluing the neck on the body.
That sounds like good advice, as well as the edge of the finger board providing a positive profile line to work to while shaping.
Any advice on how much neck angle to use? I am a bit unsure about where a straight edge laid on the FB should rest at the bridge. - and of course too much angle and there will be a definite bend in the FB where it transitions from the neck to the body.