Quote:
Originally Posted by johna2u
BUT...It definitely needs a neck reset. I don't think it is worth having it done professionally. It doesn't seem to me the guitar is worth putting that kind of money into. But I do like the guitar and would be tempted to attempt it myself.
|
Then get the neck reset. Current monetary value aside, it's a solid wood American made instrument. Well worth saving. If it needs nothing else, a neck reset shouldn't cost more than $300, or $400 if you have to ship it two ways. These guitars are worth saving IMO.
Quote:
Originally Posted by johna2u
|
What I really think of that is not printable. Calling it butchery would be too kind. It creates a lousy joint, a lousy looking repair, diminishes structural integrity, and throws the intonation off. Any competent repairman could reset it properly with less work.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Silly Moustache
That was interesting, and reminds me of something a luthier pal do d form me on a cheaper instrument once - he took off the back, , angled the whole neck block back and reglued the back.
It had a slight "ripple" in the laminated rosewood, but it resolved the problem for many years, and I sold the guitar on only recently with no issues at all.
|
What you're describing is like the method commonly called a "California neck set" or what what Howard Klepper calls a "headblock job". This was used before the current techniques of removing an neck and trimming the heel were widely used. However, the whole back does not have to come off, and it can be done cleanly. It would be a great alternative to the wedge thing described above, but on a Harmony there's no reason not to use a conventional reset because the neck comes off easily enough.