I'll add my opinion to the mix.
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Originally Posted by TheElipse
1)I have a Taylor 150e 12string guitar, it is currently equipped with the stock Elixer strings, which I don't have a problem with as long as they are the nano web NOT the poly web, they really do last a long time. Taylor says that I should only put on 80/20 light gauge strings (10-xx) but I want to try out phosphor bronze, the problem is the 12 string phosphor bronze light gauge are (12-xx) are these fine to put on my guitar without readjustment? Should I try to find the extra light gauge which are quite difficult for me to locate for the right price but do start at gauge 10.
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I would stay with light gauge on the 12 string. If you switch to the PBs and they are a different gauge you should either perform proper setup or pay to have it done. There will be a difference.
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2)Should I be using a guitar humidifier/moisture absorbant?
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If you live in a region that's very dry, yes.
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3)Do you guys know any techniques specific to 12 string guitar, like people or lessons about things that can only be done on a 12 string guitar. I once read about only plucking one of the doubled strings instead of both to get the notes of a specific octave and playing with this idea, but I can't remember where I read it or any songs that do this
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The acoustic songs in this article would be a good place to start
http://www.guitarworld.com/top-30-12...songs-all-time
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4) What do we think of red bear picks? I personally notice a huge difference in tone and haven't had any issues with them, besides getting them in the first place, but I have heard of a great many breaking.
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Never tried them
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5) What are some of the best 6 string guitars you can buy with a 3000$ budget?
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The staples from the big builders priced $1800-$3000 are: Martin D18, Martin D28, Gibson J-35, Gibson J-45 Standard, Gibson Advanced Jumbo, Taylor 300-800 series. You'll have to negoiate an 800 series down a bit but you should be able to get one for $3000. These are all production model all solid wood guitars made in the USA. One isn't necessarily better in quality than the next, it just comes down to personal preference. The cost difference is in materials and ornamentation all are pro-grade and you just need to find the right "tool" for you. If you want to save a bit look at all solid wood options from Asian builders. Eastman and Blueridge put out great product.
The next step up in terms of craftsmanship would be $5k-$10k range which would be a guitars from boutique builders like Collings, Santa Cruz and limited runs from big builders like the Martin Authentic line.
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6) Is it worth it to change out the bridge and nut piece on either the GS mini or 150e to bone?
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No. Good luck with the GS Mini. They are fun while they last.
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7) What are some things that you guys think are essential for any acoustic guitar player to know? I know this question is vague, but some of you probably have some philosophies of your own that you feel everyone needs to know.
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1. Learning guitar is not a linear path. Yes we all start with three chords and learning the basics, but beyond that getting to the mountain top of what you want to do with the guitar is going to be one of a few different roads. If you goal is to play instrumental parts like Tommy Emanuel then as you transition to immediate level you need to change focus a bit. If your goal is to be a singer-songwriter you want to put a lot of focus on when to play and when not to play and working on making your guitar playing complement your vocal technique. It's really a very versatile instrument so figure out what you want to do with it early on. 2. You can't rush progress. Use a metronome or drum track and force yourself to learn the song slowly in proper time and then slowly increase the speed. 3. Always tune before playing.