Taylor neck crack
 

I just bought this Taylor 114e on eBay, it has two broken tuners and this neck crack.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/147703...posted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/147703...posted-public/

I'm no stranger to crack repairs, including neck crack repairs, but I've never repaired a crack like this before. I'm used to neck cracks that extend from the nut, down the neck (usually on both sides). In which case I'd CAREFULLY pry open the crack, inject watered down glue followed by straight glue. Then clamp the crack closed, and let dry.
This crack however, is only on one side of the neck and is not flush. I can't think of a way to open this crack to get glue into it (without causing further damage) and I'm thinking it will be difficult to clamp flush after I get glue into it.
Would it be a ridiculous thought to drill some TINY holes directly over the crack to inject glue into? If not, how else could I get glue into it?
And since its not a 'uniform' crack, what would be the best way to get it looking as invisible as possible after its been glued?

Any advice appreciated, thanks all.

I would not use a "watered down glue".

I would first make sure clamping tightly closes the crack. If so, then I would use a low viscosity CA and clamp closed - that looks like an easy crack to fix.

I would not drill any holes.

Thin CA will wick into almost anything. So much so in fact that you have to be really careful. IIRC you can thin Titebond up to 10%. That would probably get in there too if you can flex it and get some movement in the crack.

I was watching that auction too :D I agree with Fazool, I think I would do some thing CA glue and clamp it tight :up:

I would consider doing a back strap repair on that one.

Give the glue a go as referenced above, but I suspect it's not going to hold only because of the crack angle, it appears to be cross grain at locations.

Steve

If the cracks goes all the way through you might try the vacuum trick. Apply glue to the surface and let the vacuum pull it into the crack from the other side.


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On that one I'd leak in as much thin CA as it wants to drink, followed by some medium viscosity. Clamp it up and it should be fine. I'd expect no problem with stability because of the angle of the crack. First, I'd verify that I could get good cleanup with acetone, of course. . .

Thanks for the advice everyone I'll try the thin CA. Still not sure how to get the best clamp, its a really awkward angle. I'll figure something out.

But I just received the guitar today and I noticed there are actually more cracks. Not sure what actually happened to it.

There is a crack from the nut down the neck:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/147703...posted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/147703...posted-public/

And two cracks on the face of the headstock. However these are very minor and I'm wondering if they're just through the veneer or through the headstock as well:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/147703...posted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/147703...posted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/147703...posted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/147703...posted-public/

None of these newly discovered cracks line up directly with the original one, but I'm wondering if the whole headstock is structurally compromised now.. Thoughts?

The one from the nut down the neck under the fingerboard is the result of force opposite the string pull. It often occurs when the guitar is shipped with no string tension, coupled with heavy enclosed tuners. Since string tension will tend to close it, it is IMHO the least serious type of headstock crack.
I see no reason for concern about headstock stability once the cracks are glued. I would also use thin CA on this particular repair.