I have a all-laminate F360 which is essentially a D-28 clone with cheaper materials. It's seen better days so I can't comment on its quaity other than I guess its good since it's held up for 35 years without a neck reset -though it could use one. I opted to put a block and tackle inside (reinforced the neck with a block under the fretboard extension and put a JLD Bridge Doctor under the bridge plate) and now it sounds like a low-end Breedlove. It was never very loud though and the original tuners weren't that good. Like I said though, it hasn't had the easiest life. I still like to play it every day and don't mind if my kids knock it over.
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Wonder if I might opt for something like this when i have the pickup installed... |
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http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/a...orby/001-1.jpg |
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If my son sold a guitar I gave him like that I'd beat his :P But i digress... I gotta get some strings for this baby soon. |
As stated above: if there is an S suffix it has a solid top. Such as F-312S. As far as I know, they all had laminated b/s.
The date is usually stamped on one of the top braces. Look inside the sound hole at the edges of the top braces for the date. Also, the model number should be stamped inside on the back center seam brace. There should also another stamp that is also a copy of the Martin center seam stamp. Once you find the model number you can look up info on the Takamine site on their archive/discontinued model pages. |
On the Takamines that have the headstock decal that looks like a Martin decal from 10 feet away if you find the serial no. usually on the battery case mounted on the neckblock, the first 2 numbers are the year the second two numbers the month the third 2 numbers are the day of the month the last 2 numbers indicate the order in which it was made, 33 would be the 33rd guitar made that day. I believe as a general rule that is accurate. I buy every one I can find, yard sales etc. if they are cheap enough as they are easy sells, people seem to like them. I did keep a 12 string, an es385s I bought at a Guitar Center sidewalk sale for cheap a couple of years ago because it sounds good plugged in, tinny unplugged but it was an 82 and was like new and is fun to have around.
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What I can tell you though is that if you do get it worked on you might be surprised at how alive it might sound. Mine certainly seemed to enjoy being played again. |
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The guy told me to keep it tuned to D or D# standard unless i was playing it, or playing live.... other than that he just said i could slap a capo on at the first or second fret to achieve "normal" pitch... I thought lowering and raising the pitch frequently on a guitar was bad, especially one as old as this? I've kept it tuned to E since i bought it... I know about the model number... mine was made august 13'th 1977 |
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as Discontinued. They appear to be similar to the Martin "Lawsuit" guitars. By the way, here's a bit more on Takamine: reverb.com/news/a-brief-history-of-takamine-guitars |
Japan really hit its guitar making stride in the early 70's and never looked back. Among Japanese Takamine fans the old 70's and 80's knock offs are legendary. It doesn't get a whole lot better than that. I've got a 1980 Japanese Sigma/Martin that is a killer as well.
80 Sigma/Martin D10 Anniversary Edition https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ot...A=w490-h640-no Here's a clip of one https://soundcloud.com/ibookmusic/the-claw |
Miss my lawsuit Tak
I had a 1982 F370SK (solid spruce top, koa back and sides.) It was a solid instrument, decent tone, but the back was laminated, so the koa was more eye candy than functioning as a true tone wood.
Bought it new on sale for $350. Sold it two months ago for ... $375! |
I've got an old Guild Jumbo takamine. Its a beautiful guitar. The guild versions are somewhat rare. I've also had a couple of the Martins.
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