Does The "HD" in HD28 stand for "having difficulty"?
 

The following is offered on Martin's website:

Q: Is it safe to use medium-gauge strings on my scallop braced guitar?

A: Yes it is safe. All of our six-string guitars designed for steel strings have been tested to withstand the tension of a medium gauge string. However, since each top is unique, take note if the top starts to raise abnormally. If this happens, go back to the lighter-gauge strings.

Having just bought an HD28, the "If the top starts to raise abnormally?" is a bit disturbing. The recommendation is to "go back to lighter guage strings"? What kind of advice is this? Seems to me a new replacement guitar would be the correct response.

Is the top of an HD28, with its scallop bracing, not truly strong enough for medium strings?

My own HD top hasn't moved more or less than other nice guitars I own and it's one if not the best selling guitars so I think "having difficulty" is probably isolated to individuals.

I spent a period active with my area bluegrass association and saw some people like very heavy sets of strings and play loud and hard while exposing their guitars to different environments. Some of those people are probably the wrong candidates for a lightly built guitar.

My HD-28 has stood up to 10 years of playing indoors, outdoors, and in groups and it's just fine.

When I visit my favored repair shops I get reminded guitars are wood instruments and some do have problems.

I always used mediums on my HD-28. Didn't notice belly bulge or other weaknesses from it. It just sounded better thats for sure.

I could string my HD28 with turn buckle cable and it would take it. lol I wouldn't worry about mediums on that guitar. You might need a truss rod tweak depending on what was on there before, but you should be fine.

You missed the "all tops vary" part of the answer. They are indeed capable and widely used with mediums but they are advising you that if your particular top responds with excessive belly, go to lights to relieve the tension and probably have it checked for brace integrity, etc.

I have mixed feelings about this. An HD28 is meant for bluegrass and should stand up to mediums; however, it is prudent if it isn't behaving to switch to lights. The question arises as to how Martin addresses this from a warranty standpoint. All good guitars should belly some, but not excessively so. If they're absolutely flat the likelihood is that its overbuilt.

I would look to the front of the bridge as a better arbiter of how the top is moving. Guitars belly from behind the bridge as they pull into tension once they're strung up. The problem comes when the area in front o fate bridge begins to fail and the top is beginning to or has gone beyond flat, as in diving in front of the bridge in that area between the sound hole and bridge, then the top/bracing isn't sufficient to withstand the use of medium strings. If this is in fact the case, then I think it is a warranty issue because it can't handle the string tension and the top is deforming. You bought the guitar for a particular purpose for which it was advertised and it isn't capable of functioning in that capacity. They should offer to retop the guitar or in the alternate replace it. The trick is how far do you let it go before you ask for service. If you ask too soon, they'll say it isn't a problem.

Martin switched to heavier, non-scalloped top braces and moved the X-brace an extra half inch from the soundhole in the 1950's because so many people were using heavier gauge strings on their dreadnoughts exclusively. Repeated use of these heavier gauge strings, with their extra tension, would, over time, produce a "bubbling" behind the bridge, which, over time, could lead to problems developing with the bridge pad or nearby braces. The HD series attempted to copy the beloved pre-war Martin D-28 -- not just with herringbone trim, but with scalloped braces and an X-brace shifted forward to its original position. Therefore, consistent use of heavier gauge strings on these guitars could (not will) result in similar problems.
The best way to get around this is to use a set of light gauge strings every once in awhile to place less tension on the top. You don't have to do it all the time -- just every third string change or so.
It's a lot cheaper than buying a new guitar. :up:

I've never had a problem with mediums string on any Martin dread over many years, including GE's and 28V's which are both lighter braced than an HD-28.

It should not be a problem, unless something else is going on.

The HD-28 is fine for medium strings. Don't give it a second thought. Play more, read less. :D

It's called a "disclaimer". Disclaimers are standard for just about everything you buy these days, and guitars are no different. If they don't say that something "could possibly happen" and it does for some unknown reason, then they are on the hook (so to speak) for damage... if they warn you that something "could" happen and you ignore it to the point of it becoming an issue, they are basically throwing any and all responsibility back in your lap.

Hi Preacherdog,

You've already had some very authoritative responses, which from my experience are accurate. The HD-28 guitar was designed for use with medium strings.

You, like a lot of folks on the AGF, may prefer medium strings, and if that is the case, you should not expect problems. On the other hand, you can give yourself more margin to avoid any potential problems by using light or medium-light strings if you are not committed to the use of mediums. I use light strings on my old D-35 and Gibson AJ simply because that is what I like. Also, light strings are less hard on my arthritic finger joints. If you can stand to use lighter strings, they will impose a lighter pulling load onto the bridge of the guitar. I have mostly used light strings on my 1967 D-35 and it is still in terrific shape -- no neck reset, no top problems aside from a view nicks and scratches from 43 years of playing.

Regards, Glenn

Zabdart, in the 50's the gauging was heavier than the current 13-56.

And there you have it. Thanks Dave.

Quite right that many in that era used heavy gauge strings. Im fact, the Martin Dreadnaughts in the 1960's were fitted with Martin Heavy Gauge strings from the factory. They sure sounded great but they were difficult to play and the guitars would eventually suffer from the added tension. Most people would quickly change to something lighter and easler to play.

I changed to luight gauge strings on all of my guitars many years ago. They work for me.

Hello,
Following is a post from an online discussion in 2001 where we were encouraged to post questions for Chris Martin. Just fyi...


Sir,

Two years ago, after playing a Sigma SEMC-28 for 15 years, I went in search of a guitar for bluegrass. I played many guitars, an HD-28 included. When I played that HD I knew it was the one I had to have. Bought a Larrivee. Why (a question I ask myself daily)? I have never owned a Martin, but know people who have, and their complaints about top warp-age and lack of stability making their guitars unplayable for prolonged periods of time proved difficult to ignore.

So I guess my question would have to be, when I finally gather the wherewithall to get my HD-28 and slap a set of D'addario Medium Flat Tops on it, assuming I am vigilant with regard to humidity monitoring,...am I going to be able to sleep at night?

Fare well, dogboy


Chris Martin
unregistered

Hi,
It is true that we build our instruments very delicately. In fact I often tell people on tour that we build them so they are just about ready to blow up but(hopefully) never do! We think that's were the tone is best. Proper care will minimize the chances of top failure. Some slight bowing is natural.

P.S. Don't forget our lifetime warranty.